Hello folks!
Today removed head and barrel to inspect everyting. Head looks good. Smooth.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/129446366 ... 395715828/

Here are pictures of the bore:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/129446366 ... 960807344/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/129446366 ... 395731598/


It doesn't look too bad. Somehow in pictures it looks worse. Here is the piston:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/129446366 ... 581756301/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/129446366 ... 395750088/


Strangely big mark on a piston at 15 degrees to the left of exhaust port, but not much marks on a barrel. So do you think it needs a rebore? Or just a new piston only? Unfortunately conrod bearings feels worse:

Small end- there is side to side movement. I think quite excesive. Piston slightly twists on a pin axis. But I can't feel up and down movement, maybe little.
Big end- side to side movement I think quite excesive. Also you can twist conrod on crank axis. Feels excesive too. No noticeable up and down movement. Float seems to be big aswell. Maybe 2 mm. Generaly piston and conrod feels wobly and sloppy. Maybe thats was causing rumble or slapping I heard. Next door works old car mechanic. I asked him to tell me his opinion and he said its f***ed. So all in all I think it's kinda bad news for me ($$$)- looks like engine rebuild, crank reconditioning, rebore...
Lots of questions appeared. Do I need a conrod or just reconditioning crankshaft? How do I know conrod is not good? Should I use Leisure Trail? Or PJME? or SEP (Service Exchange Parts)? What piston? Any personal experience?
Sorry lots of questions, I am a bit overhelmed by it, but sure it will all come into places ... Thanks for replies

I am allowed to use only 6 URLs-ok

Top end is completely knackered. From you're description not doing the bottom end at the same time would leave you with a ticking time bomb
Mike

Thanks Mike!

Can someone tell me how to tell if conrod needs replacing? I know one reason if it's rusted. Bearings are replaceable.
Or do I just send whole crankshaft to LT or other crankshaft rebuilding company and they will tell if it needs a new rod.

Today built a front wheel. Rim was second hand so its not 100% true, but it's gonna be ok. Dish is ok too.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/129446366 ... otostream/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/129446366 ... otostream/

Rim is 3.5, tyre 120/70. Needed to cut fork guards. Will take picture tomorrow. Also fitted EBC 320 disk with adapter, but I think now caliper sits a bit further from braking surface of the disk. Or maybe it's just a wavy disk confuses. I'll take a picture too

As FMtB for barrel and piston. To check the big end try to pull the con rod at 90 degrees to the bearing. There should be some play side to side on the con rod but not at 90 degrees.

Thanks knackered!
How do I know what size rebore do I need? Next 0.25 or more? Is it depends on a damage? Or do I just send the barell and they will tell me?
Also LT advertise crankshaft rebuild inc conrod. But do I need a conrod? Is it possible to reuse old conrod?

Hi

Always send my barrels to LT for re bore, they size the piston up and grind the power valve for you, just had one done, about 7 days turn around, this is the third one, the others have been spot on.

Cannot comment about crank shafts, never had to have one refurbished yet.

Thanks for the info and lead times Luke. What piston did you get: Honda or aftermarket?

It's an aftermarket piston, think it's the TRX one, this is the third on, first one has done and ridden several times with no bother, now moved on, second one has had two rides and nicely bedding in, third one just come back last week and currently being re built.

Sent the barrel on a Friday got it back mid week after, so about 8 working days, with a box full of parts.

PV cables longest lead time, got them 3 days later.

All dismantled now, ready to post

https://www.flickr.com/photos/129446366 ... otostream/

Here is fork guards and disk

https://www.flickr.com/photos/129446366 ... 601937836/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/129446366 ... 440597618/

Just make sure you route the brake line behind your fork, or you will snag something in the rough.