Hey Guys.

I just been working on the electrical side of the bike installing an acewell digital speedo thing.

Anyway, somewhere along the line somethings broke. I've circled it in the attached picture. i think its a fuse or what not. The elctrics still work but at the moment its disconected/broken.

What happened was it was smoking when the battery was attached. Just this one point. The other of the same was fine. So i pulled what tape was left on it and got the pliers to it and broke the little fuse or resistor whatever it is. That's what you guys are here for lol.

Anyway is it important? I'm sure it is and I should replace it. It wasn;t always smoking just connected it after several times of it not smoking and it just happened.

Also. While your looking at the wiring diagram. I just bough a Hel inline brake switch as some might know. I was wondering which wires i have to connect it to. I can see them on the wiring diagram but it doesnt really translate to much when i look at the bikes electrics. So maybe some pics of the wires needed or such would be nice to describe it for me.

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Thanks for any help.

P.S: BBCode is off for me. No idea why. It's on in my profile. So i couldnt post the pictures in the forum. Just a link

eerrr a pic of what it is you have actually bust would be good mate. Its been a while since i did electronics at college and i cant remember what that symbol is... yet i do recognise it...


You could host them on http://www.imageshack.us" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; thats what i use.

The hel pressure switch simply replaces the wiring that is already there, i.e if you are using it on the back, there is a little "plunger" thing above the rear brake lever, it has a spring going to it... which brings the contacts together in the circuit. You can remove this entirely and replace the banjo on the master cylinder. Then the 2 wires from the pressure switch go into the wiring that was connected to the brake "plunger" ... jd.

I'm pretty sure they are the diodes for the oil and temp LEDs. I've removed them on my bike as put Trailtech speedo on.

Diodes ay? So if one is not connected that means the light won't work for the intended LED? Can you replace them?

Also about the brake switch. I dont currentlyhave one on it and was wondering how to install it as there are no wires to speak of in existence near the back break pedal and no end wires that are exposed so i could guess thats where they go. So hence my problem.

Just as a side note. Does the CRm have any fuses?

Thanks for help so far. I can;t really take a pic now of my actual bike as it midnight here and I'm too lazy atm :) But im grateful for the help.

I would think they can be replaced but an electrician will tell you what you need.

Easiest way to install a brake light switch is with a pressure switch as has been talked about recently. Take the feed off any live wire and then connect throught the light to the green circuit.

CRM 250s have no fuses.

knackeredMk1 wrote:I would think they can be replaced but an electrician will tell you what you need.

Easiest way to install a brake light switch is with a pressure switch as has been talked about recently. Take the feed off any live wire and then connect throught the light to the green circuit.

CRM 250s have no fuses.

Err is that correct, only I'm sure i have a 5amp fuse in a holder behind headlamp nacelle, it might not be OEM, but i carry a couple of spare fuses, so if their not needed, that's a few grammes of weight i can lose .
Regards Mike

they are diodes - you check them using a multimeters 'diode' function - they should pass current in one direction only.
looking at that wiring digram there is a 5A fuse on a MK3 at the flasher relay.

Thanks Mark, i thought i was going to need to grab a photo of it , but , if it only does the indicators, i can still lob the spare fuses, as i have removed the winkers anyway.
Now all this typing has worked up an appetite for more cheesecake, relax it's be good to yourself cheesecake.

ahhhh cheeeeesecaaaaaake - stop it - it not easy finding good cheesecake here - I'm off to beg to the wife....

hi these diode things are what ive been playing with. I tried a 12 volt battery on the plug that goes behind the headlight but the leds lasted 3 secs and blew. So i put a volt meter on the wires at the led end and found that only 6 volts was was supplied to the led. So my 12 volt replacement led numberplate bolts still work ( oil & temp warning lights ). So i assumed that said diodes are just to convert 12 volts into 6 volts as in 6 volt led. God knows why. I would try a 12 volt bulb or tester in place of the diode then if it works just use a 12 volt equipment hope this helps. By the way i have just tried a wireless digi speedo and the running of the engine knacked up the signal.

ps also the wires were temp led yellow + , blue -. oil led red +, white/green - mine is a mk 2 model. pps what is the battery for that caused the problem ?

The battery is for testing the electrics while i was installing it so i didnt have to start the bike.

Looking at the wiring diagram the circled diodes seem to be related to the neutral light rather than the oil and temp LED's. Diodes do not 'drop down' (convert) voltage. They control current flow by only letting it pass in one direction - kind of like a check valve. My best guess is that they are there to help prevent the neutral light from flashing on every time you pass through neutral when changing from 1st to 2nd and vise-versa by delaying the current supplied to the neutral bulb.
Any corrections by wiser people welcome???
Regards
Skidmark

Somewhere or someone told me they were connected to the LEDs. I can't remember.

I am regretably no electrician.

You are quite right Skidmark in that the diodes do seem to be connected into the Neutral light switch circuitary on the wiring diagram.

on my bike the led relay ( on the right hand side behind the headlamp ) is supplied by 4 wires that come out of the loom. i may have called them (diodes) as i didnt know what exactly they are but i know that 6 volts was coming to the leds so it must have been the led relay. but my original leds did light on a 12 volt battery for a few seconds then popped. but ive replaced them with 12 volt number plate led bolts and they work ok. knackered is correct they are on a different set of wires on further investigation